Spotlight On....

Once Upon An Inci....

Hands up who honestly reads the ingredient list and understands it before purchasing a product?

Anyone? Didn't think so....

In Europe and the US, among other countries, manufacturers have to use the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic's Ingredients (INCI-List).

The purpose of the system is to overcome country and language barriers. That is why all INCI lists use Latin, botanical names. This way, say if you are allergic to an ingredient your doctor can tell you the official INCI name, making it easier for you to avoid it.

Using the INCI system does mean that ingredient lists can look rather technical, even in the case of the simplest ingredients, such as salt (sodium chloride) and water (aqua). However, many good companies want you to understand their ingredient list and will put both the INCI name and the commonly recognized name.

E.g. Vaccinim Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil

The FDA directs that ingredients be listed in concentration by weight. So the first listed ingredient is the most concentrated ingredient in the product. If water is the first ingredient on the label, it is likely that upwards of 75% of the product is compromised of water. Preservatives are always necessary if water is present to keep the product form spoiling. However, peptides, enzymes, vitamins, antioxidants and a host of other active ingredients are extremely effective in  small percentages.

It is impossible to determine exact amounts of each though, because divulging that would reveal the company's formula.

Creating a skincare product is little bit like making a meal. First of all you need to go shopping. It all starts with the scientists. Often by accident. Scientists, with eye watering budgets, spend millions researching how to say cure blindness and inadvertently realize the test subjects may not be able to see but they are showing reduced signs of ageing. So, I completely pulled that example out of my a** but you get the gist. It's how it happened with San Francisco brand Algenist- a bunch of nerdy types were researching alternate sustainable fuels, algae to be precise, and realised the Alguronic Acid from the algae was not only extremely hydrating but also anti ageing. The team behind Algenist not only have an incredible range of skin care products they also flew a commercial jet across America, impressive huh.

So the scientists then do Clinical Studies on their ingredients and state that X at say 5% reduced wrinkle depth by 50% in two weeks. Companies then go to the 'shop' and buy X to use in their product. HOWEVER, they do not need to put X at 5% into their product. They can put it in at 0.2% and not tell you. Sneaky. Don't just trust Clinical Studies, see if the company has also done Consumer Trials- where the finished product is tried on volunteers. Companies have no idea when they spend thousands mixing ingredients together that they will work in synergy with each other/ at the percent they have included. To be honest it is all a bit of a gamble.

Check back for what ingredients to look out for, what they mean and why they are included.

Detox Delights

Detox

When it comes to eating healthily and going to the gym I have been a very naughty girl this year.

I was never a huge gym bunny, despite the fact my mother is a fitness instructor, until my second year of uni. Freshers fifteen really caught up with me and I decided to put my free gym membership (from working at Virgin Active) to use. I worked out 3-5 times a week, ate well (if you ignore the occasional cheesy chips) and wasn't as excessive with my drinking as first year. Over my second and third year I lost about a stone and a half. 

Not only did I have a free gym membership, I worked out with two of my best friends (one who had a car, making the weather an inexcusable reason not to go to the gym), and I had motivation. Holidays. My month long trip around Vietnam last summer with my teeny tiny best friend was a huge motivator.

Fast forward to this year. I lost my free gym membership, live with my I-only-excercise-if-it's-tennis-or-swimming-in-my-garden boyfriend and have developed a penchant for take away. Nawt good. The fact that I have only drank alcohol about five times this year, rarely drink a drink that isn't water and on the whole eat rather well has meant my weight hasn't ballooned too much. 

I have put on about five pounds that keep coming and going as they please. I can feel it on my stomach, back of my thighs and my ever disappearing slash reappearing collar bones (my favourite body part). 

Something needed to be done.

So I detoxed. David Kirsch's 48 hr detox. For 48 hrs cheating was chewing. I drank his ready made pink lemonade for three meals a day and lost 5 pounds. If anyone watches The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills (guilty as charged) the Super Charged Cleanse is quite similar to Yolande's master cleanse. 

It claims to leave your feeling slimmer, healthier and more energized in just two days, without feeling hungry or fatigued. I'm not going to lie it wasn't a walk in the park (I don't think I could have mustered the energy for a walk in the park). A friend of mine attempted the detox but got so delirious she gave up and ate a Mcdonalds at the end of day one. 

I was fine on the first day. I spent most of the day shopping. Zara has always been a good hunger distraction. Drank my detox and my bubbles as well as lots of white tea- I found drinking hot drinks tricked my body into feeling full. I woke up on day two with loads of energy and I am not a morning person! I worked on day two, probably not a good idea. The sardine packed commute to work was hell. At around three I felt really faint and couldn't concentrate much on my work. I powered through, drank my bubbles and went to sleep at about 9 that night. The next morning it was over. I felt slimmer, healthier and more energized but it would be a lie to say I didn't feel hungry or fatigued.

Well worth a go if you are looking to embark on a health kick. After two days of food deprivation it makes you think twice about that slice of shortcake. It is also harder to lose weight when you have toxins residing in your body as the toxins grab hold of the fat. However, it is not the answer to quick fix weight loss loss. A couple of weeks have passed and slowly but surely most of the weight has crept back on.

One thing I was impressed with was the Thermo Bubbles.

I supplemented the drink with Kirsch's Thermo Bubbles. Another pink lemonade flavoured drink that works to boost your energy levels, increase your metabolism and curb your appetite. There is no way I could have survived the detox without these. 

In an attempt to rid myself of those pesky five pounds for good I have recently started the 5:2 diet. Coined the greatest diet revolution since Atkins it seems like everyone and their uncle are trying it. The idea is to eat what you like five days a week and restrict (or fast) for two days. 500 calories if you are a girl, 600 if you are boy. Apparently you should lose on on average 1 pound a week from this intermittent fasting, as well as seeing improvements in blood pressure and cholesterol. 

I have tried many a fad diet (often influenced by my mother) - Dukan and Grapefruit spring to mind. And whilst I don't think I will stick to fast dieting for the rest of my life it is reconditioning my thinking about how much food my body actually needs. I seem to be surviving just fine on my 500 calorie days. Yes I feel hungry but it is nothing unmanageable. I have been having asparagus and a egg for breakfast, edamame beans for lunch and salmon and greens for dinner. I have to say the recipes in Mimi Spencer's Fast Diet cook book are delicious. I have to admit (and I'm not sure if this is cheating or not) but I have been relying on my Thermo Bubbles to get me through my fasting days. On one of my 'normal' days last week I tried to eat healthily  probably around 1,500 calories, but didn't drink my Thermo Bubbles. I felt more hungry than my fast day with them.

I like the knowledge that I have rid my body of a huge built up of toxins and that thought it may be hard I don't have to eat that whole tub of Ben and Jerry's in the fridge.

If you are looking to detox/change the way you think about food/shift those extra few pounds I cannot recommend David Kirsch or the 5:2 diet enough.

I am finally getting my eating under control....now just to start hitting the gym. Might as well put my new Nikeys to use.

Check out fast dieting here: http://thefastdiet.co.uk/

Spotlight On

Hope

One of the things I love about the beauty industry is its power to empower women. Sometimes all you need is a slick of red lipstick to make you feel like you can conquer the world.

Cosmetics can make us feel beautiful and confident, yes, but they can also make a bigger difference. With a simple act you can transform your daily beauty routine into a ritual that empowers others lives.

Project hope (healing through opportunities to pursue enterprise) is a social enterprise project which works with women who have suffered at the hands of trafficking. They want to make the worlds first sustainable safe house.

Empowering women in the best sense of the word.

Hope have released a range of body care products focusing on ingredients made by those affected by poverty in Africa.

The innovative students behind Hope set up a Shea Butter Cooperative in Nigeria. The Shea Butter they make is shipped back to the UK to use in the products.

The Shea Butter is roasted and boiled and an optimum point- a discovery by one of the engineers behind the products, making it one of the finest grade Shea available on the market.

Shea Butter is a superfood for the skin. The Shea tree is considered sacred because of the bounty of goodness it can do for your skin. hair, beauty and health.

Shea Butter is deeply moisturizing, strengthening and protecting the skin as well as hydrating it. It stimulates collagen production, making the skin more supple and younger looking. Rich in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory it can help decrease the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and scars. Plus it smells amazing.



Neroli and Vanilla Lip Balm £4



Vanilla Body Butter £11



Coconut and Shea Sugar Scrub £8

The Whole set is available for £20

The Hope range will be sold at Spitalfields Market tomorrow for the one off Unipopshop event. All proceeds go straight back into the project to help further fund a sustainable safe house for victims of human trafficking.

A purchase of these little beauties will leave you not only looking good but feeling good too.

Follow them on Twitter @sifehope

What cosmetics do you use to empower you? #BeautyEmpowers

Spotlight On

Exfoliators

I may be going against the grain (excuse the pun) on this one, but I hate traditional exfoliators. 

In the words of the great Sali Hughes, 'Until you remove dead , flaky skin all moisturiser will do is paste it down.' 

You can not underestimate the power of a good exfoliator for chomping off those pesky dead skin cells So let's get down to the nitty gritty (sorry I couldn't help myself). They deep cleanse the skin, dislodging build-up in the pores and helping to break up white heads and black heads. They will also help smooth and refine the skin's texture, giving it a soft and supple look. Lastly, it enhances blood flow to the face, giving the appearance of a fresh glow. They do wipe away many a problem.

 Whilst I may not be the biggest fan of the old school granular (read: itchy and irritating) exfoliators I am fully embracing the new kids on the skin care block; exfoliating toners, masks and pads.

Liquid Exfoliants look like traditional toners but bring a lot more to the S(kincare) club party. They're applied in the same way- on a cotton wool pad, swept across the face. Can be used once or twice daily, depending on how sensitive your skin is, and to gradually get your skin used to the intensity you can wet the cotton pad first. My skincare (and all round life) guru Caroline Hirons recommends using acids daily in the form of these toners. Keeping the PH of your skin acidic will help avoid breakouts, increase the thickness of the dermis and keep skin plump and juicy. One swipe skincare? Liquid Exfoliants are one of my faves.

Pads work in a similar way to liquid exfoliants except they are already pre-soaked in glycolic, salicylic or lactic acids (they decrease in strength in that order). They will help to sweep dead cells out from under the rug, reducing fine dry lines and blocked pores, leaving a smoother more radiant complexion. Can be used once or twice daily. These are the best.

Masks are perfect for when your skin needs a little extra ooomph. They range from gentle 'slougers' to at -home-microdermabrasions. These peels contain natural (such as fruit) acids, enzymes or chemicals to resurface without irritation. They're easier to use than 'scrubs', not scratchy and work on a deeper level. A little tingling is normal, make sure to protect your skin with a high SPF in the following days (new skin will be more prone to sun damage) Use one or twice a week.

Don't get over-excited and start over-exfoliating. Check whether the toner or pads are recommended for once or twice daily, and take a break on the days you decide to use a mask. 

Check back for more in-depth exfoliator reviews

Rant or Rave?

Hourglass Opaque Rouge Liquid Lipstick in Muse

Pucker up beauties you're in for one hell of a ride with this little number.

I have to admit I'm rather partial (read: half of my makeup is from there) to Hourglass. It has to be my favourite makeup brand I've discovered this year. High accolades indeed.

A LA based brand the products are designed to meet the oh-so-discerning needs of those Californian babes. 

I can't stop lapping up the lippie. Especially Opaque Rouge Liquid Lipstick.

They say: The proprietary blend of advanced polymers in this liquid lipstick delivers intense, vibrant color with exceptional longevity. Skin-conditioning emollients, antioxidant fruit extracts, cili fruit, goji berry, and vitamins A, C and E help to protect the lips throughout the day.

Sounds a bit fancy schmancy to me. One thing for sure it is richly pigmented and dramatically matte. One swipe and you're good to go. 

They claim that it lasts 14 hours of continuous wear without flaking or dryness. Here is wear it gets a bit sticky up in here (figuratively speaking, literally the texture is very balmy). Whilst it does work its little butt off you must, I repeat must apply to dry, 100% clean lips. There must be NO lip balm, Vaseline, Baume de Rose, you name it in a 5 mile radius of your lips. For the formula to really work its magic it needs to be adhering to naked lips, not a slip and slide. Whilst the Vitamin E does create a softer texture than your traditional matte lipsticks it is not the most forgiving to dry lips. Exfoliate the night before and lather on the balm and it won't act like a beacon to your chapped pout. Secondly, you must allow it a few minutes to dry before eating or drinking. I ignored my own cardinal rule on holiday and the lipstick was completely gone after dinner, leaving a not so attractive ombre effect.

Lecture aside if you follow the rules this little number will stay as long as you can play. I can't remember much about my birthday but I know my lipstick looked good! Gone are the days where you could tell which glass was mine by the bright coloured rim my lipstick left or whose boyfriend was mine by the territorial cheek print. Pros and Cons.

My personal favourite is the coral-red Muse. A very bright, traffic-stopping colour, it is less neon, and more wearable, than it's Femme Rouge counterpart. Whilst it looks scary in the tube, it really perks up your face, and looks ahhhmazing with a tan.

So pucker up, and kiss who you want, you won't be leaving a mark....not that I advocate that kind of thing....

£23 available here

Slightly more expensive than your drug store purchase, but you'll be reapplying a hell of a lot less- so it'll last a lot longer. Price Justified. Gotta love my beauty logic. 

Kiss, Kiss xx 

Rant or Rave?

Seche Vite Dry Fast Top Coat

When it comes to painting my nails I'm not such a chip of the ole' block. My mothers obsessive base and top coat strokes of genius have not been passed onto me in the genetic lottery- hence why my nails, well, chip a lot.

Half-on, half-off nail varnish is not a good look. For anyone. Which is why Seche Vite Dry Fast is the top coat to top all others. I take my (top) hat off to it, I will never be without it again.

They Say it is specially formulated to penetrate through varnish to the base coat, forming a single solid coating over the nail plate for a much more durable finish. 

Sounds like a bit of a mouthful to me. However their claims that it is resistant to chipping and peeling I can vouch for. I had a rather horrible experience with a certain Essie polish the other week. Sans top coat part of the polish peeled off into my eyeball when I was rubbing my eyes. It took the meaning of pink eye to a whole new level.

All I can say is, if you haven't got Seche Vite yet get your (probably chipped) hands on it now. A week later my varnish has only just started to chip, and I think that is more to do with my nails growing. My talons were coming up trumps compared to my mum and sisters manicured pair. It dries super quick, making me change my 'nails take all day to dry' belief (but don't tell my boyfriend- I'll still use 'but my nails are wet' as an excuse to not help wash up). It doesn't drag or streak the wet polish underneath, and dries down to a high gloss, could be mistaken for Shellac, finish. 

What more could you ask for?

A week later, still going strong

A much needed lick of paint

£9.00 Get It Here

Do you think Seche Vite have nailed the top coat polish?

Rant or Rave?

Emma Hardie Natural Lift Moringa Cleansing Balm

My name is Frankie and I am a balm-a-holic. Once you go balm you never go back. My face just doesn't feel as clean using a gel or milk based cleanser as it does with a luxurious buttery balm. 

The newest one I have been trying is Emma Hardie's Natural Lift Moringa Cleansing Balm. And I love it. So much I'm half tempted to throw away my Eve Lom so I can start using it daily. I would have to check myself into a mental institution if I did this though, I ate baked beans for weeks to afford my latest pot. 

Whilst I loved Eve Lom's rich, heavy texture in the Winter now that the sun has (finally) come out I want to get into the Spring swing of things with a lighter consistency. Emma Hardie is a dream to apply. The balm feels like freshly churned butter, takes off all my makeup and throughly cleanses my face, without weighing it down with an oily film. Just rub a pea sized amount between your fingers, massage into your face and remove with a flannel or muslin cloth. Simples. I sometimes even leave it on my face for 10 minutes when I'm in the bath for the ultimate hydration boost.

The ingredient list reads like a botanical buffet for the face; Vitamin E, Aloe Vera and wild sea fennel to name a few. And no mineral oil (Eve Lom I do still love you but mineral oil is one of THE cheapest filler ingredients around). It smells divine too. All spa like and lovely. 

The all natural ingredients make the balm a perfect partner for any, even sensitive, skin types. 

It leaves my skin feeling soft, hydrated and clean, oh so clean. Can you tell I'm in love?

And at £34 pounds it's £21 cheaper than my Eve Lom, sorry Eve.

What's your favourite balm cleanser?